Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Panama's Nationa Bird; The Harpy Eagle

Here is a picture of the eagle. Had to go to a zoo to see it. Also, my first Tapir and Anteater.

Gorging ourselves at Miraflores Restaurant, Panama Canal

This restaurant is located at Miraflores Lock, one of the three locks along the Panama Canal. There is also a good visitor centre there.

The restaurant offers a fine dining experience whilst watching the huge ships gently glide by in the canal. They offer an excellent buffet as well as a la carte. We went for the buffet and gorged ourselves. I particularly enjoyed the pretty presentation of the banquet, especially the amuse gueule's in elegant little porcelain dishes, and ate about 10 of them!

The Balboa Union Church - a very unusual eperience

We like to look at Churches. We like the architecture and the way they are decorated inside. They usually also provide a cool (temperature) and tranquil respite from the fatigue of sightseeing. Our favourite churches so far have been in Mexico. Simply divine (pun intended!)

As you may know I am not a supporter of religion, considering it devisive. I am however curious about Buddism.

Balboa Union Church www.balboaunionchurch.org is a pretty 1914 church perched up on a hill near where we are parked. We popped in to look at the architecture and take a few snaps. Ooops! There was a worship session going on and we were invited to join in. It was a bit awkward to walk out once we had been caught snooping around so we sat down with the congregation and prepared ourselves to 'escape' at the most discrete time. But, surprisingly, the presentation was interesting and relevant to me. And we received a very warm welcome by name during the presentation. In fact, yhe presentation and the singing of a song called Lord of the Dance was so interesting and poignant that it moved me to tears - literally! Uli was concerned and wondering what was up with me. I could only explain it as a mixed feeling of
sadness about not having my family and friends and a community around me - this is something you have to give us when you are driving around in a tin-can on wheels in foreign counties - together with a feeling of warmth and happiness at feeling so welcome and included in this little community.

The Lord of the Dance is a song I sang at school and at that time thought it was a terribly sad song.

And we had a few moments to think of the people in Japan and Libya and everyone who is suffering from poor health and that made me feel sad for them and guilty for my good fortune.

After the presentation and singing, we had coffee and cake and a chance to talk with the locals. Panama City is incredibly diverse, mainly due to the canal constuction. There are also quite a few expatriate Gringos and it was interesting to hear about their experiences and how they came to be in PC.

Friday, March 18, 2011

How do we get from Panama City to Cartagena, Columbia??/

Ok, it seems we have 2 choices
aeroplane
boat

We have been looking into paying to go on a private yacht from Colon to Cartagena. It will cost about 400$US each. I have found a few yachts on a website www.lunascastlehostel.com - trendiest backpacker hangout in the City, favoured by very young, very thin, pale people sporting deconstructed clothes, muzzy hair, body tats and piercings. I felt like an old grandma in that place. We will go back and have a chat with the organisers face to face and get the facts, man.

BUT - I am not optimistic, the Skipper of 'So Long' yacht told me it would be unlikely that we will secure a boat to Cartagena now because the winds are blowing in the wrong direction. We'd have to go under engine all the way. Doh!! I feel such a nitwit. This yachting lark is a whole new game and I am going to do a bit a cramming so I can have some idea of how it all works.

So, we may have to fly.

Woooo - we have a ride through the Panama Canal!!!

Golly, gosh and gumdrops! I was up early this morning to get on the Balboa Yacht Club bay radio and see if I could convince someone to take Uli and me on their yacht through the Panama Canal. It seems that most yachts are going the other way ie caribbean side to Pacific. I found the radio and dialled in channel 74 on the VHF waves. I was out of my comfort zone and don't understand yachting language/protocol but- miracle upon miracle - with some help on the airwaves from other Gringo yachtees, I found not one but TWO yachts looking for crew to go through. So, Uli and I are officially 'line handlers'and our trip is set for next Friday 25 March 2011. It will take 2 days and we will stay overnight in Gatun Lake. We can't believe our good fortune. We met the skippers today and they invited us for a coffee on one of the yachts - So Long - and they picked us up in their dingy and we were treated to a yummy lunch! Very nice couple - ironically she is German and he is English - there seems to be quite a lot of English/German couples out there living alternative lifestyles. There is also a sweet fluffy dog called Honey who will be in my yacht - yeah - another pooch to adore and treat.

My Skipper asked what fee we were expecting...I said 'fee ???....ummm...actually I feel like we should be paying YOU for the priviledge of being with you on this amazing trip' And it turns out they will feed and water us too!!! Am I dreaming???

Making progress...but its like pushing water uphill with a stick!

Hmmm, as anticipated, things are not quite as straightforward as one would wish. It's lucky that we have logged up so much experience with Central American bureacracy, I think if we were new to all this we would run screaming home!

Progress so far:

We found and bought a good map of City. This has helped no end. We are whizzing about all over the place and have almost sussed out the City layout. I take back my comment about selling your car and just using taxis. With patience and determination and a GOOD map, you can do it.

* When we met with Evelyn-the-shipping-agent we did NOT hand over the cash. I didnt feel confident with the process. we will pay at a later date, once I am happy with all the logistics. I have an instinct that she is not revealing all...But we ARE booked on Ship on 12 April.
* No news re linehandling through canal. We will go down in person early to Balboa yacht club and get on the VHF radio and put out a message into the bay.
*Sorted out bank. It took 1/2 a day!
*Tracker is not fixed despite spending a whole day visiting at least 6 garages in town. Uli is threatening to fix it himself - he thinks its the camshaft sensor?
* Harvey is now full to the brim with LPG. After our failed/aborted attempt last week, we nailed this job in 30 mins. Just as well because we were running on vapour!
* Car insurance. Done. 20 minute job actually took over 4 hours due to pretty-but-dim staff
* Car permits extension with customs office.Done. Thought it might take 4 hours, got away with less than 2 hours.
* Working on booking a yacht from Colon to Cartagena. It will be more fun than a plane and we will see more of the Caribbean and San Blas. I would like to go on a Catamaran because they have more space and are more stable.

Work and Play in Panama City

Hey, this is a really great City; something for everyone.

We have a few jobs to do to get our ducks in a row for the trip to Columbia. Here is our checklist

*Meet Evelyn the shipping agent and find out more about process and hand over cash
*Put posters up advertising us as linehandlers to hitch a joy ride through canal
*Contact our bank in Granada to see why we can't withdraw cash for passage to Columbia
*Fix the Tracker - weird overheating problem - not involving water cooling system
*Fill LPG for Harvey
*Extend car insurance x 2
*Extend car permits x 2 with customs office
*Arrange day for police to check vehicles and give us a 'you are not criminals and these are your cars' documentation for shipping vehicles
*Arrange a day for customs to check every item in our vehicles before handing over vehicles to the port. This will involve emptying ALL contents of Harvey and Tracker onto a tarmac road, have officer check it all, then put it all back. Such fun!
*Book a yacht or plane to get Uli and me to Cartagena before vehicles arrive
* Buy and install a bedroom fan

And if we have time:
*Eye exam and glasses/contacts Lesley
*Dental check up for both
*Uli blood cholesterol check up
*Lesley buy HRT drugs

It reminds me of product management way back when I used to work for a living; getting the logistics right so that everything falls into place and we meet the deadline. Better get onto it!

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

All's well at Casa Cubana - our boutique hotel in Granada

I had this message from Amazing Amanda...it tickled me. She is the best!!! (Gloria is our resident rescue parrot and official greeter.)

Good Morning!

All is well at Casa Cubana. The guests are tucked away in their beds sleeping tight (they did a 4 hour kayak tour and then hiked Masaya Volcano yesterday)
I am ready with spatula in hand to serve them pancakes when they wake. In the meantime, I will sit here at my desk and admire the view of my gorgeous pool boy as he has his backside to me checking the chlorine levels. Thank God for that test. It's the best part of my day.

Gloria has claimed him as well. Shameless little hussy. If he doesn't pay attention to her, she throws a tantrum. Hmmm, wonder if that would work for me?

More guests coming and going today. Ginger is a popular suite, and people LOVE Clove. Must be the open shower. I have a really pretty beige bedspread on there too.

Ok, time to get busy. I bought this gorgeous water jug in San Juan del Oriente for the house, and I have to clean it and set it up.

Have fun scampering around Panama!
Amanda

Bless you Amanda, if you read this Blog - we could not have continued our tour of the Americas without you! x

Monday, March 14, 2011

Hanging out with the sea dogs at Balboa Yacht Club, Panama City

Today started out well, then it got a bit iffy, then it ended on a high!

We visited a shopping Mall called Albrooks to get a widget for Harvey. We need electricity hook up because it is so dang hot here; we are sweltering by 0930 hrs. But the plug is damaged so we need a new one. There is always something that needs fixing or replacing. The road is tough on ‘systems'.

I amused myself whilst Uli hunted for the part. I had a manicure for 5$US and a trendy hair wash and cut for 14$US. I am now sporting a fringe again. Johnny the stylist was from Columbia and did not speak English. The owner was Italian so he translated. I love it when you pitch up somewhere and you are surrounded by this cosmopolitan energy. Johnny kept dropping his combs and scissors and then did not wash them/replace them so I was a bit nervous. But it in end, he cut a LOAD of hair off – he cut into it and thinned it out. It was like a woolly tea cosy before; far too heavy and hot. Now it is quite trendy and Uli likes it! Yeah!

Then we got lost in the Mall. Literally. It is huge. We wandered around and around and couldn’t find an exit. Uli became irate. I thought it was funny. Normally, it’s the other way around! We finally made it out, and then we became lost in the concrete roadway jungle of Panama City. It’s tricky to navigate this place, especially with a crumby map. We paid three times at the same road toll station. Eventually we worked it out and got back home. If I ever live here I would sell my car and just use taxis. Not worth the blinking headache plus mucho traffic. I had forgotten what a drag it is to sit in hot stinky traffic.

The fun part was hanging out at the new Balbo Yacht Club and meeting two old sea dogs; Tom from near Glasgow, Scotland and Buddy from Tennessee, USA. They have a passion for boats and were fun to chat with and gain info on how we can catch a yacht going through the canal and have a free ride as crew.

Tom is skippering a huge Katamaran (20 birth) and is awaiting his boss and owner to come to Panama City and then they will sail to Australia and sell the boat for double the price.

Buddy is here on vacation keeping Tom amused. Nice, likely lads. Funny stories. And scary stories too about being shipwrecked. They took us down to Flamenco Yacht Club at the end of the Amador causeway where the real sailors hang out – nice bar/resto surrounded by beautiful yachts in the marina and cheaper Balboa beer! I shall try to hook up with these boys again; they are great company and I would love to take a peek at the fancy boat!

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Hola from Panama City!

Hey - we made it!! The drive over the Bridge of Americas was fun. Great views either side - huge tankers, small yachts, islands, a cluster of Miami-style skyscrapers, helicopters and small fixed wing planes flying around, parks etc etc. I wonder why they did not design the bridge to walk over it? What a missed opportunity. We enjoyed walking across Golden Gate in San Fran and actually climbing over the top of Sidney Harbour Bridge, Australia. Ah well, maybe one day.

We are parked up at Canal Inn in The Boca area, and are right by the Bridge of Americas - I can look up to my left and watch the trucks go by. It's a sweet private b n b and we are of course hogging the car park. It's HOT here! We will have to run Genny to get the heat down b4 bedtime.
We have a good fan in Harvey which is a blessing but I want to buy a baby one for the bedroom too so we can run it at night. Why did I not think of that 4 1/2 years ago? Doughnut!

Today we have jobs; find some propane for Harvey - the fridge/freezer is hungry for propane in this heat; we have to refill every 3-4 weeks which sounds a cinch but you have to track down a Tropigas provider and drive there and get filled up. One day I hope we will be able to arrange a home delivery - but they don't seem to carry the right neck widgets with them for an RV installed LPG tank. Proably because only about 20 RV's pass through Central America per year - hardly a lucrative market.

We need to find a bank and start withdrawing piles of cash - as per usual there will be a daily restriction on how much we can take out - we need to withdraw over 5,000US$ cash to hand over to the agent who is arranging our passage to Columbia.

Ok off we go on a reccie of the City. More later!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Food glorious food!

My BBFF just dropped me a line to tell me about the feast her young children made for the family Sunday lunch. Here is the menu:

Homemade lentil soup with homemade bacon and cheese bread

Beef bouginon with creamy mash potatoes, red cabbage in balsamic vinegar

Individual lemon sponges with double cream and homemade chocolate dipped shortcake

Ooooh I am envious. Shortcake!! Lemon sponge!!

I am sick of eggs and rice and beans and chicken everywhere. We shall make a Thai red curry tonight.

Back in a Land of Milk and Honey

Just popped into a good quality supermarket here in David, Panama. Oh my, the shelves are groaning with gorgeous grub - stuff we haven't seen here in Central America for years. We bought a stash...

+ German Pumpernickel bread - Uli's favourite
+ McVities Digestive biscuits
+ Wasa rye rispbreads
+ Friexenet dry sparking wine - my favourite whilst touring. I refuse to pay silly money for 'poo!

We bought a blender and will make Pina Colada to celebrate!

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Want to travel in Harvey for a spell whilst we visit UK?

We will be visiting UK/Europe for a fews weeks from 1 June 2011. Harvey and the Tracker will be parked up somewhere in Ecuador. If you'd like the opportunity to visit a part of South America in a motor home and 4WD tow-car, nows your chance! Let me know.

Los Quetzales Ecolodge, Cerro Punta, Panama

Ok, if you still havn't seen the beloved quetzals since my last recommendation, then you can stay here and see them. Check out www.losquetzales.com its an eco-lodge up in a cloud forest up a volcano, spaceous yet still cosy, with big comfy arm chairs, rugs and copper/glass fireplaces in the centre of the room so no one can hog the heat. The kind of place when you walk in you feel you can kick off your shoes and get snuggly on the sofa and help yourself to their books and order a coffee and pineapple strudel. Which is exactly what we did.

There are humming birds too - more colours and varieties and two big labradors, one of which snores!

The villages grow fruit and vegetables at 45 degrees up the slopes - its a strange but pretty site and there are lots of blooming flowers too.

Panama - please don't cut down any more of the cloud forest...otherwise you will cook your goose AKA Quetzal!

Island hopping in Bocas del Toro, Panama!


This was a fun place to visit. The drive to the boat ferry was lovely; up and down over mountainous terrain, hardly any inhabitants. Lots of pretty water falls called Angel's Hair 1 to 4. You could really notice the change in altitude by how the plants changed; low areas for bananas and cow pastures, high up for the conifer trees.

Bocas del Toro has many little islands and you can flit between them via speedy motor boats. Its a relatively unmolested area and a paradise if you like the sea and nature.

Met a guy skin diving with a harpoon catching Lion fish; 'they have invaded the area and are eating everything and killing the coral' he said. Good news is that they taste good but dont touch them til they are cooked, unless you want a hideously painful sting.

Talking about stings; a guy snorkelling off Coral Quay managed to get stung by something in the water - he screamed out for ages. It was awful. 'They' managed to help him but he lay down on the jetty for about 3 hours, recovering from his ordeal. Poor bloke!

We bumped into a local resident who had emigrated from Czech Republic. We got chatting...as you do...and we ended up accepting an invitation to stay at his place for the night. He had a gorgeous luxurious home, hand built to a very high standard and off the grid. Uli was SO impressed with his H2O and solar and pump systems. He had a lovely and fun girlfriend and his home and garden were full of animals; birds, parrots, toucan, peacocks, baby monkey, dogs, fluffy ducklings, geese etc. He also had a little marina so we looked at the boats staying there. He took us out for a spin on his jetski and i didnt even get wet!

Such as lovely chap and so brave to invite a couple of nomads like us to come and stay.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Bocas del Toro

We are packing up to visit these caribbean islands...more later.

Feed the book worm!

Oh yes!! There is a book exchange shop just a few miles from our RV park - The Book Mark www.booksr4reading.wordpress.com - its a great shop stuffed with such a diverse range of books. I sold
  1. A Room with a View by E M Forster
  2. Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallow by JK Rowling

I bought

  1. The story of Edgar Sawtelle by David Wroblewski
  2. To ride a silver broomstick by Silver RavenWolf
  3. New Moon by Stephenie Meyer

Having read all the Harry Potter books and seen all the films - love the series even though it is written for children - am interested in learning about the history of witches, wizards and magic. Maybe I can learn how to do a charm!

How do you pick a good, cheap book whilst travelling? Book exchanges! Although they are few and far between and often have poor quality books. Here in USA influenced areas, I pick up books with an OPRAH'S BOOK CLUB label on them - haven't been disappointed.

Could not find Stieg Larsson's 3rd book, The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet's Nest but hope it will fall into my hands soon.

Exploring Panama





We are staying at Chiriqui Storage http://www.chiriquistorage.com/ approx. 10 miles north of David - useful hub town for provisions.

We are back in a land of plenty and visited a mall. The shops are brimming with lovely 'things' and we walked around gawping and oohing and aahing at all the pretty 'things' and didnt buy any. That takes some training!

Helmut, Linda and Penelope jointly own the storage business and are very kind and helpful. H and L are into yachting so we look forward to more stories of their adventures. We are only the third RV guest they have had. Not many RV's make this trip and one of the reasons is that there are few and far between places to stay. Plus people don't want to face the border problems. So we are really grateful to Chiriqui Storage for making this space! available!

The doggy in the picture is Tigre - we have been feeding him up with German sausage!

Boquete is a few miles north and we spent a day exploring the town and area. Not hugely impressed with the village - rather tatty with very few original faded glory buildings that could actually be renovated to their former glory. Also a new water channel has been built at huge expense. It is all edged in original rock boulders but it looks like a huge scar running through the town. It badly needs some trees and vegetation planting to soften it all but i reckon they ran out of funds. The surrounding area is absolutely gorgeous. Its about 12000 meters high in altitude so has a cool and comfortable climate. A circular road around the mountains leads you to the posh areas where the coffee Barons and Baronesses have huge estates and plantations and beautiful horses running around.

There was a funky hot water spring hole near village of Caldera 1/2 way between Boquete and the RV park. It was very natural (read between the lines... very stinky toilet pit, no changing room etc. etc.) and in a beautiful setting on the side of the river. The owner(?) was dressed in his best cowboy suite and had some cute animal running freely on his land-horses, geese, chickens, baby goats, a monkey, dogs, peacocks, a cow etc - it was good to see him trying to maximise his location and create other interests to encourage the visitors to stay a while. He offered horse rides and the chance to play with his animals and take photos. He was a nice guy - although overly friendly and touchy, til he saw that I was attached to Uli - but his socks and plastic sandles spoiled the cowboy effect.

Hello from Panama!


Ooof! What a horrible border crossing from Costa Rica to Panama. Why did I imagine that it could be better than all the other Central American crossings? With the USA influence, it may be a little more streamlined and organised and coordinated? Not!

In fact, it took over 3 hours. But our all time record is 24 hours from Nicaragua to Costa Rica where we got stuck at the border in no mans land on a Sunday and hate to wait til Monday morning for a lawyer to turn up at his office. But that is another story. We made the most of that predicament and had a nice supper with the local truckies. We even received a fresh pineapple from a truck driver who was kept waiting so long that his consignment of pineapples were going off. Poor chap! It made us feel a lot better about our situation - there is always someone worse off than you.

Getting out of Costa Rica was a cinch. Entering Panama was tricky. All these CA countries are paranoid that you are going to import a foreign vehicle and then sell it in the country and not pay import taxes. And we had two vehicles. So, they make you run the gauntlet of visiting different kiosks with different bits of paper and having things stamped, once, twice, three times and more and the whole thing goes on for ever and no one is coordinating with each other. It seems the more 'corrupt' a country is, the more silly stamps and bits of paper you need, resulting in absolutely no accountability by anyone.

No one wears uniforms so you cant distinguish between an 'official' and a border urchin so you have to have your wits about you. You can use an urchin to 'help you' for a small fee but we never do. Its best to learn the drill yourself. And even so, the paper-pushers still cant seem to copy a 7 digit number plate correctly from one sheet of paper to another. So you have to double check all their work.

You have to keep a tight lid on your frustration and fatigue as becoming irrate has no effect whatsoever. I do feel a bit sorry for these administrators as it cannot be a rewarding job; but they signed up for it.

Despite our best efforts we did have a problem: we left the border and drove into Panama and congratulated each other on making it over. Then a few miles down the road at the first check point we were turned back. We had to return and have yet another stamp and signature on a another piece of paper - see what I mean about lack of coordination between the workers? That cost us an hour and gallon of petrol. The guy wanted a 'soda' for calling us back and stamping various bits of paper. He said he 'saved us 500US$' I wanted to give him an earful for being an incompetent ninnie and wasting our time and petrol. Instead I smiled sweetly and said I was very tired of being at the frontera for over 3 hours and was looking forward to enjoying his country. He did not recive a soda.